Today I saw two things of note. 1. A doll funeral and 2. A man wearing a kimono made entirely from stone-washed denim. The second, I believe needs no further comment. The first however, you're probably wanting to know more details. You see, every year at Kiyomizu Kannon Temple in Tokyo's Ueno Park, there is a ritual performed in which dolls that "are no longer needed" are put to rest via mass cremation. You can see why I made it a priority to attend this event.

Thus on a sunny day  I found myself wandering alone through Ueno Park.  I felt exhilarated to be out on my own exploring the city like I used to, but at the same time, a bit sad that there wasn't anyone else there to share the experience with. Mr. D and all my friends were working or taking care of their babies so it had to be a solo venture. As I strolled through the park, I saw an interesting looking foreign girl who was sitting on a bench and scrupulously studying her guidebook. She looked to me like the type of girl who might be up for a good doll funeral. Feeling full of good spirits and thinking that perhaps I might pick up a bit of company, I walked over and said "Are you looking for the doll funeral?" I could tell immediately that I had made an error in judgment and that instead of titillating the girl's curiosity with my unique opening line, I had actually completely freaked her out. "Um, actually I was just here to see the Dali exhibit" she replied nervously.

Me: "Oh. Yes, yeah..."

Her: "You know, um, I wouldn't hang him on my living room wall or anything but..."

Me: "Yes, well you know, the surrealists and all... They were um... well Dali, he was..." I trailed off feeling that this wasn't really the conversation I wanted to be having just at that moment. I could also see that instead of presenting myself as the fun Tokyite who was up for a bit of wackiness at the doll funeral that those kooky Japanese were throwing, I was instead coming off more as... well, I'm not sure how I was coming across but from the look on the girl's face, it wasn't good.

"Anyway, guess I'd better get going, you know to the... doll funeral." I said. "OK well, have fun!" she responded brightly, obviously relieved that I would soon be gone and not really caring where I happened to be headed. Doll funeral or back to the hospital to take my meds, didn't really matter to her.

Having failed at making a new friend, I continued on my way but soon found that I was a bit lost. I decided upon the risky gambit of asking directions. Risky in that although 99% of Japanese people are unfailingly nice when asked for directions, only about 50% are actually correct when giving them. The first woman I asked was about 90 and after much hemming and hawing, she pointed me off in a direction which I knew was exactly opposite of where I needed to be. The second person I asked, a middle aged man, told me that the temple I was looking for was actually in Kyoto. "Oh shoot!" I wanted to say as he looked at me pityingly, "Here I am in the wrong city again! Silly me!" Instead I just nodded gravely along with him, then turned and saw that I was standing directly in front of the path leading to the temple. "Guess I'll just head down this way then. Thanks anyway." I told him as I walked off.

When I finally arrived at the temple grounds I knew I was in the right place when I saw the big kiln like thing filled with dolls and the three cardboard boxes next to it which were full of even more.

I was immediately struck by the fact that these dolls were nice dolls. I'm not sure what I was expecting- perhaps a bunch of junky legless torsos or a headless Ken doll but these dolls were beautiful- most of them old and although some of them had seen better days, they were for the most part in remarkable shape. How was it decided that these particular dolls had reached the end of their ropes? Who made that decision and what if I disagreed? For a moment I briefly contemplated performing a sort of mass rescue but then decided against it. I had barely made it to the temple in the first place so I couldn't really see myself being able to dash quickly out of the park and onto the train while carrying a giant cardboard box full of dolls.

I started talking to a few other people and found out that the ceremony had started originally as a way for parents to give thanks for a child. People who were unable to have a child would pray at the temple to have one and when they did, they'd sacrifice a doll in the child's place. Indeed, there were a few women lined up who were holding dolls ready to be placed in the fire.

There was a quick ceremony (some monks, some chanting, the usual) and then the fires were lit. After the initial batch of dolls were burned, the grateful parents were escorted to the kiln and one by one, their dolls were thrown on top of the heap.

Surprisingly, there was a foreign woman in the mix as well. She was carrying a doll with hot pink hair and was being filmed by a crew of foreign camera men. I briefly wondered if she was an actual parent or if this was just for a TV show or something. I couldn't imagine them letting her fake it but then again, she was carrying a doll that looked suspiciously like Strawberry Shortcake. On the other hand, the best dressed of the Japanese mothers (wearing formal kimono) was carrying a stuffed Winnie the Pooh so one never knows.

As the smell of burning plastic and synthetic hair filled the air, I realized for the umpteenth time how much I'm going to miss this country. Sadly, I don't think they have doll funerals in Switzerland.

Comments

[Damon Coulter]

Hello, interesting story of the day, I got lost on the way there too. I found you via a link to my blog from yours. The blond was indeed Kelly Osbourne being filmed by an English TV station for a programme that is being shown about now in the UK.
Glad you had a good day.
I was a little disappointed I thought the ceremony would be less, industrial-looking. That is not a ritual fire it`s an incinerator!
Take care
Damon

[Jess]

That is Kelly Osborne, she was filming her tv show there. Weird, it's just airing now..

[kat]

she WAS faking it!!! No respect for the sacred meaning of the doll burning festival!!

[kat]

shit - it really was kelly osbourne!!!

http://sungypsy.wordpress.com/

[Thrusher]

I love Switzerland, but I am REALLY going to miss you being in Japan! This post is brilliant.

[mimi k]

lucky you to get to see this. I would have loved to be there.

[rachel]

I thought that was Kelly Osbourne too!
Hmm..That or a younger version of my big sister...
What an intersting tradition.
I only have the family tradition of saying "Happy Rabbit Rabbit" on the first day of the month...Blah.
Ha- Myra, I would of been right there, blocking for you!

[christina]

I think that is Kelly Osborne - what a weird thing! Japan is a very very different place...

[myra]

That is so fascinating! I probably would have tried to make a run for it with one of the boxes of dolls.

[gleek]

i love japan. what a fantastic place!

[Sar]

That blond haired Non-Japanese lass looks like Kelly Osborne. Ozzy's daughter.